Surfers are notoriously indecisive.
They’ll stand in the parking lot, insulated, $75 coffee cups in hand, gossiping, grab-assing, procrastinating, and contemplating a session for ridiculous periods of time – questioning the crowd, the tide, or any number of ludicrous, inhibiting factors.
Sometimes, it’s almost like…do we actually even wanna paddle out? Or are we just a bunch of posers who pretend we surf, but find any excuse possible not to?
Eventually, most of us finally do paddle out, but after much deliberation.
Like the Jamie O’Brien clip above. He watched the waves for quite some time before finally having a go at Pipeline. And he had good reason to be skeptical. It wasn’t the easiest session at Pipe to say the least – like…third reef bombs maxing out the lineup.
Here’s what he had to say before:
“The best thing about it right now is that it doesn’t look that good if you just pulled up, but if you sit and watch it for a while, there’s some really good ones.
“It seems like the big sets clean it all up, then if you get a set in time, you’ll get a good one. But if you wait too long, the wind will come back on it.
“We might as well surf. This might be the last Pipe swell for a couple days…who knows. I’m out there.”
And then after the session:
“Sometimes you have a really good surf session; sometimes you have a really bad surf session. I got three really bad waves, which was kind of a bummer. There were a handful of good ones out there…but it was more of a workout for me.”
You win some, you
lose some spend your entire session getting drilled by third reef Pipe bombs.
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