This is one of those waves that, even if you know where it is, you probably don’t want to surf it.
Breaking directly in front of a pile of rocks, the paddle out to this slabby point in California is treacherous enough. Mistime the jump? You’re f–ked. Snap a leash on the drop? See ya never surfboard.
In the edit above, aptly named “Fickle”, Dane Reynolds and his Chapter 11 TV friends score this rare wave during the first swell of the 2023 El Nino winter. While it was tough sledding out there, there were still some serious gems to be had, like the spitter Reynolds lucks into at 1:30.
Click play for the latest Daily Export from Former.
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